The red gorge is one of the most spectacular chasms in the American West, set in
a large national recreation area, with camping, hiking, boating, and many geological
wonders to see. This route moves from Utah to Wyoming, through the south edge of
the High Uinta Range. Nearby places include Vernal Utah and Green River and Rock
Springs Wyoming
Although this drive is a short one, it is one of the most impressive drives in the
West and stands out in my memory with the great national park experiences. There
are no high mountains on this route and what we see is the core of the Uinta range,
instead of the peaks. What we gain from a day or more spent in the Flaming Gorge
area is an understanding of how our earth developed -- the magnificence of a billion
years of nature's work.
The Flaming Gorge Drive
It's 46 miles from Vernal to the village of Manila, a northward route which takes
us past the Red Canyon of the Green River -- the "Flaming Gorge". Running north
from Vernal, on U.S. Highway 191, this drive passes through striking geologic formations
including the "Red Fleet" buttes, and then climbs through the Uinta foothills to
reach the plateau from which you can gaze down into the stratified gorge which is
filled with the rich red color of the rock of the area.
Vernal, at the southern end of the drive, is a city with a full range of visitor
services. Dinosaur National Monument is located a few miles east of town, just inside
the Colorado border. An early visit to the Ashley National Forest ranger station
in the city will aid in your appreciation of what is to follow on the drive.
Along the Way
The Red Fleet
The route passes across flat land to the Red Fleet Reservoir. A series of geology
markers point out the unique formations along the route.
Just before reaching Red Fleet, the highway passes the Steinaker Reservoir, part
of the Colorado River Storage Project. Beside the road at this point is a hillside
where the Morrison Formation is on display, where dinosaur bones and gizzard stones
are found. The state park at the reservoir has camping facilities and fishing for
bass and trout. The park is located on the west side of the lake.
At the ten-mile point, there is a west turn to the Red Fleet Recreation Area. The
landscape is covered with sage and juniper trees, providing a winter range for deer
and elk. Here, one can see the huge red sandstone buttes, the "Red Fleet" -- resembling
tall ships -- from which the reservoir gets its name. There is a boat ramp and campsites
have recently been constructed. As highway 191 climbs through the foothills, on
a series of ten switchbacks, there are good views of the buttes "sailing" through
the reservoir. A turnoff at mile 15 leads to the Red Fleet dam, which holds back
Big Brush Creek. There's a foot trail to the top of the ridge (at mile 21) with
views of the dam, reservoir and the dramatic terrain which is at once forlorn and
awe inspiring.
To Flaming Gorge Dam & Dutch John
There are no services along this part of the route, but several picnic areas provide
places for lunch. The drive continues across the high plateau with the summit at
8,428 feet. The junction of highways 191 and 44, at mile 35, provides choices --
to continue on 191 to visit the Flaming Gorge Dam and recreation sites on the eastern
shore of Flaming Gorge Lake, or to take Utah Highway 44 to the Red Canyon.
The dam features a self-guided tour, an elevator to the base of the 490-foot dam
and the power house, and an information center for the recreation area. Ten miles
north of the dam is Antelope Flat, with views of the canyon. There's also a swimming
beach and a boat ramp. Nearby, the village of Dutch John is home to the project
staff and includes a store and cafe. Just north of the dam is Cedar Springs Marina
with boat rentals and scenic cruises. Rafting on the river below the dam is popular
with visitors with a half-day float to Little Hole and a full day to reach Brown's
Park.
Flaming Gorge
The main attractions of the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area lie along Highway
44, between the Hwy. 191 junction and Manila. There are several campgrounds located
along Hwy. 44 including the Red Canyon Campground, located next to the major canyon
overlook, with a second information center at the overlook. Accommodations are available
at Red Canyon Lodge, also located on Red Canyon Road.
The quiet waters of the Green River are seen 1,500 feet below the rim and the visitor
center -- open during summer months -- includes displays of local plant and animal
life.
Back on Highway 44, the drive passes two picnic areas at Dowd Spring. One is located
on the highway. A hilltop sideroad leads to a stunning overlook with more picnic
tables.
Sheep Creek Canyon
Red Canyon provides one scenic highlight. Sheep Creek Canyon Geological Area provides
another. This area, on a loop sideroad, presents an impressive array of twisted
rock, tall hoodoos and upturned formations. There are picnic areas beside the loop
road and a marker commemorates an early homesteader, Cleophus Dowd, who farmed near
the canyon in the late 1800s and was killed in a violent argument with his partner.
A small cabin stands near the marker.
Emerging from the canyon, the loop road joins Highway 44 for a short drive north
to Manila.
Along the Lake to Green River
The drive continues north on Hihway 44, passing through the green Lucerne Valley
where there is a spur road to the lake and a marina with camp sites for tents and
RVs. Gas and other services are available at the marina.
The route continues through the desert, with frequent sideroads leading to the shore
of Flaming Gorge Lake. There are boat ramps at the end of these roads and several
lake-side campsites are accessible only by boat. There is a car campground at Buckboard
Crossing, near the north end of the lake via Buckboard Road.
After crossing Black Fork Bridge, there is a backroad which leads to the confluence
of the Black Fork and Green rivers.
Green River, Wyoming is the end of this drive. It's a town with full visitor services,
located west of Rock Springs. The Old Stage Station in Green River is a national
historic site. Interstate 80 is the major highway which links the cities of southern
Wyoming to the Salt Lake region.
Alternate Route to Rock Springs
You may want to take the eastern route, driving north along the east side of Flaming
Gorge Reservoir (Highway 191), ending your trip at the town of Rock Springs. This
is a minig and rancing town, on Interstate 80, a few miles east of Green River.
Several sideroads lead from the route to the reservoir, offering more boating opportunities.